Short answer: start with the simple things: battery disconnect switch, breakers and fuses, then check each charging source with a multimeter. Lithium batteries often show 0 A when full or below freezing; that is protection, not failure.
| If you need… | Look for |
|---|---|
| Solar | Controller display, PV voltage, PV breaker, MC4 connections, controller-to-battery fuse |
| Shore power | Converter breaker and fuses, battery disconnect ON, lithium charging profile |
| Driving | 7-pin charge line or DC-DC charger fuses and ignition signal |
| Battery itself | BMS state, temperature, resting voltage, capacity |
Still stuck? A qualified RV technician can test the converter and BMS. Upgrading? See choosing a charge controller and DC-DC chargers.
Safety: These are general estimates, not a design. Follow your equipment manufacturer's instructions and local electrical code, and consult a qualified electrician for anything connected to shore power, a house, or high-current batteries.
A full lithium battery accepts little or no current, so 0 A can be normal. Otherwise check PV voltage at the controller, the PV disconnect, fuses and MC4 connections.
Many older converters use a lead-acid profile that stops around 13.6 V. Lithium needs a converter or charger with a LiFePO4 profile, and the battery disconnect must be on.
Most LiFePO4 batteries block charging below about 32°F (0°C) to protect the cells. Warm them up or use a self-heating battery.
Only if the 7-pin charge line or a DC-DC charger is wired and fused correctly; check voltage at the house battery with the engine running.
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